Produced at SangSom, Thailand’s oldest and largest distillery, founded in 1977, from sugar cane (U-thong 1 variety (4-2-046 E-), local molasses, water from the Ta Chin River, exclusive yeasts and a particularly original ageing process, Phraya is Southeast Asia’s first ultra-premium rum and the soul of Thailand bottled.
It is difficult to say exactly when rum, or a similar product, began to be distilled in Thailand. Sugar cane has been grown there for much longer than in the Caribbean, and Chinese distillation expertise must have reached the country a long time ago.
It is therefore likely that relatively low-alcohol spirits such as arrack were produced there. However, it was not until 1977 that Thai-Bev (Thailand’s largest alcohol producer) founded SangSom, one of Thailand’s oldest and largest distilleries (in 1977), on the banks of the Ta Chin River in Nakhon Pathom province.
SangSom produces the premium rum Phraya, as well as other brands aimed more at the local market (Thailand has a population of nearly 72 million). The name ‘Phraya’ refers to a dignitary or a very high-ranking title, similar to a knight, which speaks volumes about its ambitions.
From the outset, the brand was designed to be Thaï-Bev’s international flagship and to represent the very best Thailand has to offer in terms of spirits. ‘When we created Phraya in 2011, we already had more than 30 years of experience in rum production, but we wanted to launch something a little more special,’ says Paul Warathep Chandeeraj, Brand Ambassador for Phraya Rum. ‘We had the raw materials, the expertise and exceptional juices. So why not show the rest of the world this high-quality rum?’
A local raw material
The SangSom distillery works closely with a cooperative that grows sugar cane in the Nakorn Pathom/Kanchanaburi region on rich, fertile soil. ‘For Phraya, we use the U-thong 1 (4-2-046 E-) variety of sugar cane. It is harvested every 12 months. This variety is known for its good yields in irrigated areas and moderate resistance to disease, making it suitable for general sugar cane cultivation in Kanchanaburi,’ explains Paul.
The cane is sent to the group’s sugar refinery and the molasses to the distillery. Phraya therefore controls its supply of raw materials and the rum is made from local sugar cane, which is not always the case for molasses rums. Let’s talk about this molasses.
‘It’s like a thick, dark, sweet, savoury soy sauce with umami characteristics,’ reveals Paul. ‘It makes the rum rounder, smoother and sweeter.’ If you meet him, don’t hesitate to ask him for a taste, as he often travels with samples of this black gold.
A light but expressive rum
Water from the Ta Chin River is used in the fermentation process. It is also used to cool the fermenters in order to maintain optimal temperatures in this tropical environment. “We have our own water purification system, which produces both reverse osmosis (RO) and demineralised water. We recognise the importance of being part of the Ta Chin River community. That’s why we’ve adopted a water circulation system to conserve water and treat wastewater according to industry standards.”
During fermentation, the water is mixed with molasses and a yeast strain exclusive to Phraya rum. The process takes an average of 1 to 2 weeks in stainless steel vats. Next comes the distillation stage.
‘In our distillery, we use column stills and distil twice. The first distillation produces a spirit of 40 to 60% ABV, followed by a second distillation at 95% ABV. This process results in a lighter and fruitier style of spirit,’ says Paul.
According to him, the rum that comes out of the distillation column is extremely expressive, even though it is distilled at 95%: it is funky, sulphurous, with tropical notes of vanilla and coconut, which form the backbone of the aromatic palette of Phraya rums. Rum lovers take note: Paul will have a few bottles available at the next Whisky Live event!
Deep maturation
However, the entire Phraya range is aged in charred American ex-bourbon oak casks. This unique ageing process is known as ‘deep maturation’. “We have to contend with a very hot and humid climate that takes away about 10% of our rum every year, as the temperature generally varies between 21°C and 36°C, rarely falling below 17°C or rising above 39°C. In order to control this angel’s share and slow down the ageing process, we have built semi-underground cellars on the riverbanks, 3 or 4 metres below the river level,‘ explains Paul. There, the casks are stored in a cool and more stable atmosphere due to their depth and proximity to a lagoon.’
The distillery team has thus managed to reduce the angels’ share to 6-8%. As Phraya rum comes out of the column at 95% and is aged in 100% American oak barrels, ex-bourbon casks, it is no surprise that the cask is predominant in the final aromatic profile.
‘For me, the main aromatic characteristics of the range are caramel and coconut, but there are also, of course, vanilla, tropical fruits, spices…,’ explains Paul. It should be added that the range boasts no added sugar, although caramel may be used to homogenise the colour.
Ambitions in France and Europe
Phraya’s primary market is, of course, the local market in Thailand. However, the brand was conceived as an international flagship, so it is also present elsewhere in Asia and Europe.
In particular, it is seeking to expand into the cocktail market with its ‘Golden Hour’ campaign, which promotes its mixology cuvées, best enjoyed at sunset. Already present in France for several years, Phraya is seeking to expand by making several different cuvées available and placing its trust in a new distribution partner, Marussia France.
The Phraya range
The entire Phraya range consists of rums made from Thai raw materials, fermented, distilled and aged locally. No sugar is added. They are aged in charred American oak ex-bourbon casks, stored 4 metres underground next to the banks of the Ta Chin River.
The brand’s aromatic DNA is characterised by notes of coconut, caramel, vanilla and sweet spices. The higher up the range you go, the more complex and profound the rums become. The rums are rounded and accessible, highly aromatic, and the alcohol content remains moderate (40%). We would love to know what Phraya would be like if the distillation strength were a little lower and the bottling strength a little higher… Perhaps the future will tell?
Phraya Elements is the amber rum in the range, with no age statement. It is a good introduction to the brand. It is particularly enjoyable in cocktails.
70cl – 40% – around £30
Phraya 8 Years Old is, as its name suggests, an 8-year-old rum. Versatile, it can be enjoyed neat, with an ice cube or in cocktails. Phraya Rum 8 Years Old has won prestigious awards: SIP Platinum Award 2024 and Gold at the 2024 International Wine and Spirits Competition.
70cl – 40% – £45
Phraya Gold Rum is the flagship of the range, aged for 7 to 12 years and best enjoyed neat (although it also works well in cocktails). The cuvée has won prestigious awards: Double Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2024 and Gold at the International Wine and Spirits Competition in 2024.
70cl – 40% – approx. £55
Thai Sunset cocktail recipe
Ingredients:
– 45 ml Phraya Elements
– 85 ml pineapple juice
– 25 ml coconut water
– 15 ml lime juice
– 10 ml grenadine syrup
Garnish: pineapple leaf
Preparation:
Mix all ingredients (except pomegranate syrup) in a highball glass with ice cubes and stir with a cocktail spoon. Pour in the pomegranate syrup just before serving to achieve a “Golden Hour” effect.