After more than 10 years researching sugarcane spirits in Peru, Peruvian journalist Sergio Rebaza shares some of the country’s best cañazos. A journey that takes us through Peru’s coast, highlands, and jungle, guided by a product rich in history and identity.
Par Sergio Rebaza
For those closely following recent efforts to elevate sugarcane spirits in the Americas—such as viche in Colombia, clairin in Haiti, and charanda in Mexico—the name cañazo must sound familiar. That’s the term used for pure cane juice rum in Peru, though, depending on the region where it’s produced, it’s also known as yonke, shacta, or simply caña.
As in much of the tropical Americas, the history of sugarcane distillates in Peru dates back to the European invasion—specifically the Spanish in Peru’s case. The full history is complex, rich, and full of twists that might not be suitable for these pages (or would they?). But it’s worth noting that in my country, cañazo is not exactly a prestigious spirit you would find in a city bar. On the contrary, with only a few exceptions, its production and consumption have mostly been concentrated in the Andean and Amazonian regions, in cities, yes, but primarily in rural areas and hard-to-reach places.
It was precisely this—being a drink with a centuries-old history, mass consumption, deeply rooted in popular culture, and a bad reputation—that motivated me to research the cañazo over a decade ago. The question that sparked my interest in this spirit was: why is cañazo, which has higher production and consumption than pisco, not found in the main bars and restaurants of Lima, the so-called gastronomic capital of America, as limeños proudly like to call it?
During the next years, up to today, I’ve dedicated myself to studying cañazo, not just as a curious consumer seeking new experiences but as a journalist and researcher. I organized a series of gatherings under the slogan “Let’s Save Cañazo”, where I invited friends (bartenders, restaurateurs, and producers of other spirits), aiming to bring together common interests, and share knowledge and experiences.
In 2019, I was fortunate to receive support from San Martin de Porres University to dedicate an entire year to researching this spirit. I traveled thousands of kilometers by land to visit the different regions where it is produced; I spoke with producers to learn about their processes, techniques, ingenuity, and secrets, as well as the challenges and difficulties they face to continue their work.
That’s why I want to share here what I consider to be some of the best pure cane juice rums from my country, coming from five regions: Huanuco, Junin, Apurimac, Cusco, and Lima. A selection of cañazos with varied profiles and craftsmanship. I do so in the hope that one day—hopefully sooner rather than later—Peruvians can feel proud of our cañazos, just as we are of our piscos and other internationally recognized spirits made in my country.
To put things in context, cañazo is almost as ancient—or perhaps even older— as pisco, and it’s produced and consumed virtually all over Peru. Wherever sugarcane grows—between about 0 and 2500 meters above sea level—cañazo is produced. However, for economic, political, and social reasons, production over the last 100 years has concentrated in the Andean and Amazonian regions. It’s made almost entirely without state regulation and control, which makes it an easy target for counterfeiters, contributing to its poor reputation.
Now, fasten your seatbelts and get ready to discover the true Peruvian spirit—both literally and figuratively.
The Indomitable Leon de Huánuco
We begin our journey in the city of Huánuco (2000 meters above sea level), the capital of the province and region of the same name, located on the eastern slope of the central Andes. The history of this city has been closely tied to sugarcane cultivation since colonial times (it was founded under the name of Ciudad de los Caballeros de León de Huánuco). In fact, according to Peruvian chronicler Garcilaso de la Vega (17th century), it was here that the first sugar mill was established in Peruvian territory, although the theory of a coastal origin is generally regarded as more credible.
Be that as it may, by the first half of the 20th century, Huanuco was leading national cañazo production, with vast sugarcane plantations and monumental processing and production plants—such as Vichaycoto, Andabamba, and Quicacán, owned by the Durand family. However, the presence of this crop and its alcoholic derivative has gradually diminished in the region, due in part to the Agrarian Reform (which expropriated the lands of large landowners in the 1970s), the expansion of urban areas, and changes in crop cultivation in the zone.
If in the mid-20th century there were about 80 producers, today we barely have a handful. But this small collective force has managed to have their spirit—known as shacta, derived from a Quechua word meaning to ‘chew’ or ‘crush’—declared a Cultural Heritage of the Nation (in 2016), and they have been seeking a Denomination of Origin for some time now. There’s no doubt that in Huánuco, they take shacta seriously.
In fact, visits to distilleries are included in official tourist circuits; there are themed bars, fairs, and festivals centered around this drink. Just as Eskimos differentiate a wide range of shades of white, where an average person sees only one, the huanuqueños of the past had dozens of expressions to refer to their sugarcane aguardiente, depending on the moment and the conditions in which it was consumed: the first drink of the day, when it was drunk for love, for nostalgia, or after work… such was the importance and presence of this distillate in its culture and identity.
One of the most recognized brands, founded by Don Manuel Gonzales Salamanca (died in 2020), is Fundo Pacán, whose production facility is located in the family home in the district of Amarilis, not far from the city center. Its industrial infrastructure is quite similar to that of other producers in the area: a hydraulic mill to operate the sugarcane press, enormous wooden fermentation tanks, and a stainless steel pot still, heated with bagasse and firewood. The result is a very aromatic cañazo that packs a punch, like those that exceed 42° alcohol content.
Another well-regarded brand is Hacienda Cachigaga, located in the district of Tomayquichua, just outside the city. Its founder, Mr. Honorato Lopez, who passed away in 2021, settled with his wife in this hacienda house in 1973. Two years later, they created a family business dedicated to the production and sale of organic sugarcane derivatives that endures to this day and is part of Huanuco’s traditional tourist circuit. In addition to aguardiente, the plant produces other sugarcane derivatives, such as honey, panela, vinegar, rum—aged in oak barrels for two years—anise liqueur, and fruit macerates.
Until a few years ago, the Fundo Buena Vista, owned by Gustavo Gargurevich (who died in 2019), also operated, producing a cañazo with a smoky profile very similar to that of mezcal. His brother, Alberto Gargurevich (of Fundo Chasqui), told me when I visited him in 2017 that he only produced for pleasure, as by that time, producing shacta was no longer a profitable business. Alcohol adulterators had ultimately won the battle that other producers are still fighting, both in Huánuco and in other regions.
Recently, one of the brands that has been relaunched with a new image is the shacta from Fundo Yuncán, located in the district of Chinchao. This distillery, which I unfortunately have not been able to visit, was founded by Mr. Antonio Gallardo in 1937. Today, it is run by his son Óscar, who claims they have the capacity to produce about 3,500 liters of 50° aguardiente monthly. This is one of the shactas with the best market potential in Lima, precisely because of its refreshed image, and because the local producers who remain—many of the patriarchs of shacta are no longer with us—have not managed to make the commercial leap to other cities.
If you have the chance to visit Huánuco—a city with a fabulous climate but terrible urban chaos—make sure to visit its distilleries. You won’t regret it.
Junin: The Flavor of the Central Jungle
We call ‘Central Jungle’ a large area comprising the eastern slopes of the Andes. This Amazonian tropical rainforest is the closest to the capital city, Lima, and can be accessed relatively easily via the Central Highway. This region boasts remarkable biodiversity and landscapes, with abundant fruit cultivation, particularly coffee. But also, of course, sugarcane, which was brought to this area during colonial times and made a stronger comeback with European settlers in the mid-19th century (the story of the Austro-German settlers is truly fascinating).
That’s why it’s no surprise that the two producers I recommend from this area have European surnames, one Germanic and the other French. The first one is Roly Kriete, whose family has been involved in aguardiente production since the 1870s. His hacienda, Naranjal, is located in the district of Monobamba (1800 meters above sea level), in the province of Jauja; a name rich in history, as it was here that Spanish Conquistador Francisco Pizarro founded the first Spanish capital in Peru in 1534—although it had to be moved to Lima a year later.
Roly not only has experience and knowledge passed down from his family, but his reputation has also crossed the borders of his province through his Rondayacu (christened after the river that powers the mill of his sugarcane press), one of his distillates that was recognized a few years ago in competitions organized by the Ministry of Production. It is a double-distilled product, a process not commonly seen in other cañazos, which definitely makes his beverage much smoother.
Not far from Monobamba, in the district of Laylla, province of Satipo, is the Durand Distillery, where Luis Durand Sr. has been working with sugarcane since the late 1990s; a passion he inherited from his ancestors—the Durands of Huánuco—and has managed to pass on to his son Luis Enrique. Recently, they have transformed their distillery into a recreational destination for local families, including a restaurant and a stand where they sell natural products and sugarcane by-products.
This love for the distilling craft has led them to continuously improve their processes, as well as the infrastructure of their production plant, which features a century-old sugarcane press powered by a fuel engine, concrete fermentation tanks, and four copper stills of 1000, 600, and 400 liters. In addition to cañazo—dry, fragrant, and with mineral notes—and fruit and herb macerates, they produce a coffee liqueur and a spirit called Oso Pardo (Brown Bear), made with sugarcane honey, bee pollen, and a medicinal root known as chuchuwasi. It’s a drink capable of restoring both the body and souls of the most downcast person.
Accessing the distilleries of these two producers is not easy, but it is definitely worth it. Just make sure you skip the rainy season.
Apurímac: Pachachaca y Curahuasi
The cultivation of sugarcane in this region began during colonial times, through large estates owned by the political elite and religious groups, and later by entrepreneurial foreigners and families connected to power. In its early years, these haciendas, like the rest around the southern Andes—including Ayacucho and Cusco—were dedicated to the production of sugar and by-products such as chancaca; but shifted to aguardiente production during the 18th century.
The peak of this industry occurred in Apurímac between the late 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, through a network of plantations controlled by a few owners who held absolute, if not tyrannical power. The Agrarian Reform (1970s) and the Internal Conflict (1980–2000) put the sugarcane aguardiente industry at risk, which has only seen a resurgence in the last 20 years.
As in Huánuco, the number of producers in Apurímac started to drop since the late 19th century. By 1952, there were 62 aguardiente producers in Abancay; 30 years later, there were no more than 10. Today, however, the situation is very different. The large haciendas and the gamonales (a term used to describe the landowners in this area) no longer exist, and production has concentrated among small producers scattered throughout the Pachachaca valley and other tributaries, such as Curahuasi.
One of them is Oscar Donaire, whose family has been involved in cañazo production for several generations. In fact, his brother and cousins are also producers. In recent years, Oscar has increased his production capacity by expanding his bodega—adding a storage area and tasting room—and improving his processes. You can find him alongside the road leading to Abancay, where he processes the sugarcane, ferments the must, and distills using a stainless steel pot still over bagasse and firewood.
Not far from Oscar’s distillery, in the same area but with different production plants, are the Espinoza brothers: Miguel, owner of the Pachachaca Caña brand, and Mario, who produces under the name Trapiche Espinoza. Both are producers with many years of experience in distillation, though they have different processes. The younger brother, Miguel, works with a 1200-liter and 2200-liter copper stills of his own design, while his older brother, Mario, uses a stainless steel pot still with a rectifying column. Both produce bold cañazos that reach 50 degrees of alcohol and taste best when enjoyed among the sugarcane fields that grow along the Pachachaca river.
At the other end of the Apurimac region, near Cusco, lies the Curahuasi valley, home to Hacienda Carmen, owned by the Segovia family. When I visited in 2019, the distillery was managed by Yohana, the daughter of Mr. Elías Segovia, who once served as the regional president of Apurimac. Yohana took charge of improving all the production processes at the hacienda and expanding its product portfolio.
Here they work with their own sugarcane, grown in the lower part of town, and have concrete fermentation tanks. When I visited, they had a stainless steel still with a capacity of 3000 liters. Another of their well-received products is an anise liqueur, made from this aromatic plant that thrives in this valley, as well as a huanarpiño, a macerate made from a local plant known as “natural viagra”.
Two premium cañazos: Salqa and Sechura Rum
My interest in sugarcane aguardiente began at the same time of the initial tests of what would become Peru’s first premium cañazo: Caña Alta, now known as Salqa, a spirit distilled at 1800 meters above sea level, in the Incan town of Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley of Cusco. The Destilería Andina project was developed by the Indo-Canarian Haresh Bhojwani (master distiller) and brothers Joaquin and Ishmael Randall Weeks, born in Ollantaytambo, following the steps and dreams of their mother, American artist Wendy Weeks.
The impact—and success—of this spirit in the Peruvian market was such that in the same year of its launch, it was included in the tasting menu of Central, the restaurant of Peruvian chef Virgilio Martínez, which was ranked as the Best Restaurant in the World in 2023 according to the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Soon, other restaurants followed the same path, and international awards and recognitions also came in quickly.
The difference in the work of Destilería Andina compared to other cañazos is that they redistill aguardiente from other producers, mainly from the Apurimac region (Oscar Donaire and Hacienda Carmen are their suppliers), not far from their base in Ollantaytambo. They do this using Portuguese stills made of 100% copper. The result is two impeccable aguardientes: Salqa Verde, which has an herbaceous and rugged profile, and Salqa Azul, which is more subtle and versatile.
They also have a Salqa Reposado aged in French oak barrels with chips of native woods, and a Salqa Añejo, aged outdoors in second and third-use oak barrels—bourbon, rye, and stout—. But their work doesn’t stop there, as much of their effort—and cañazo—is dedicated to producing and selling their flagship product: Matacuy, a blend of herbs and botanicals based on sugarcane aguardiente that someone once referred to as the “Andean Chartreuse”.
Finally, I can’t help but mention one last spirit, the most recent to enter the premium segment: Sechura Rum, an pure cane juice rum crafted by former British Army captain and engineer Alex James, who arrived in Peru over 10 years ago in search of adventure with his wife Karena and daughters. His first venture was the production of a gin, which he named London to Lima—it features a native spectacled bear on the label, or is it Paddington?—and it quickly became a cult brand overnight. “Please, look after this gin”.
What stands out about Alex is his meticulous approach to every stage of crafting his products. His gin, for instance, is based on a pisco—first and unique in the world, I think—that he distills himself, and the water he uses comes from a spring in the snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. To create his pure cane juice rum, the latest addition to his brand’s portfolio, he carefully sought out the best variety of sugarcane from the coast and found it in the province of Sechura, in Piura—hence the name: Sechura Rum. He then brought this sugarcane to the Cañete valley (south of Lima), where he was able to reproduce it in partnership with a local farmer.
Today, his production facility is located in the district of Chilca (Lima). He has personally designed the mill used to extract the juice, which he ferments in steel tanks and double distills in a copper still. This is truly exceptional work, with distribution and sales primarily aimed at international markets, but you can also find his products in the best bars in Lima.
Although there are dozens of other producers in different regions, this selection of Peruvian cane aguardientes deserves special recognition, not only for their history and the quality of their distillates but also for their production in areas with a long history tied to sugarcane or for innovating the local market to highlight this centuries-old distillate. Cheers to all of them!