{"id":102906,"date":"2024-10-24T07:45:40","date_gmt":"2024-10-24T05:45:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/?p=102906"},"modified":"2024-10-24T11:45:14","modified_gmt":"2024-10-24T09:45:14","slug":"homo-saccharum-daniel-baudin-simply-the-best","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/homo-saccharum-daniel-baudin-simply-the-best\/","title":{"rendered":"[Homo Saccharum] Daniel Baudin, simply the best!"},"content":{"rendered":"

This Martiniquan, in love with his island and his rum, has devoted his life to accompanying the astonishing qualitative progress of Trois Rivi\u00e8res and La Mauny. His commitment has been rewarded with the title of World’s Best Cellar Master in 2019. But Daniel Baudin is not only the \u2018statue of the commander\u2019 of Martinique rum, he is also a living legend who continues to bring his silky, balanced touch to the Campari Group brands (since 2019), and has just enchanted us with a new Triple Mill\u00e9sime and an XO.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Rhums
Lionel Barrel, assistant cellar master, and Daniel Baudin enjoying a barrel tasting.\u00a9 FM PHOTOGRAPHERS<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Mr Baudin, first question, when did you start your career in rum?<\/strong><\/p>\n

In 1985, fate intervened and steered me towards the world of rum. I had the opportunity to work in a laboratory linked to a rum distillery and found myself in the ideal environment to delve into the art of blending and the complex nuances of tasting, working alongside the famous master blender, Roberto Soto.<\/p>\n

Right from the start, I knew I’d found my calling. Although other spirits undoubtedly have their own merits, it was the art of rum making that captivated me. Having joined Trois Rivi\u00e8res in 1991, I have been privileged to witness its remarkable evolution over the last 33 years. I was born and raised in Martinique, and the importance of agricultural rum has been ingrained in me all my life.<\/p>\n

Trois Rivi\u00e8res holds a special place in my heart, as the brand represents the very essence of my homeland and its tradition, which I am delighted to continue exploring through a creative lens to innovate while retaining its authenticity. Since working for Trois Rivi\u00e8res, I have been awarded the \u2018World’s Best Cellar Master\u2019 award at the 2019 International Rum Conference in Miami, taking me and the brand to new heights. It was a wonderful moment for me as a cellar master, which I’m very lucky to have experienced.<\/p>\n

What does your job as cellar master involve?<\/strong><\/p>\n

First and foremost, the job involves patience, sharing and passion. The cellar master is like an orchestra conductor, putting the rums, the casks and the ageing to music. He chooses the casks according to the rums, the cuv\u00e9e he wants to make and how they develop during the ageing process.<\/p>\n

He tastes the casks very regularly, and blends them if necessary. He does everything possible to ensure that his rums are the best they can be, and in the case of permanent range cuv\u00e9es that their taste is the same from year to year. Finally, he’s also a brand ambassador.<\/p>\n

\"Rhums
\u00a9 FM PHOTOGRAPHERS<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

How do you work with the other production managers: those in charge of growing the cane, those in charge of distillation?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We have weekly campaign meetings where we discuss the quality of the soil and the choice of cane. Once the cane has been received and crushed, I talk to the lab manager about fermentation, acidity levels, etc. The vesou is then distilled. All incoming batches are then tasted by the team. Once they arrive at the winery, the barrels are filled to the volume required by the AOC.<\/p>\n

Are you also in charge of maturing premium white rums?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Yes, we ensure the quality of the matured rums, brewing just the right amount. And we work on several reduction methods:<\/p>\n

The classic one: we add water over a period of one week to 15 days until we obtain the desired degree.<\/p>\n

Drop by drop, infusion: a longer reduction to guarantee concentration.<\/p>\n

When you release a new cuv\u00e9e, do you propose it yourself, or is it a request from the marketing department?<\/strong><\/p>\n

There are two possible options. For some products, we propose our choices: for example, if we think an old rum is interesting, we’ll propose an exceptional cuv\u00e9e for that batch.
\nDepending on the market, there may be special requests, because different markets have different tastes, needs and interpretations.<\/p>\n

How would you define the identity of Trois Rivi\u00e8res and Maison la Mauny rums?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Trois Rivi\u00e8res are powerful, structured, balanced rums. Full-bodied. In a way, they assert themselves. Their aromatic hallmarks are spice, pepper and minerality. One of the hallmarks of Trois Rivi\u00e8res rums is their ability to become vintages. The cane is grown in the very south of Martinique.<\/p>\n

The land is swept by sea spray, which gives the rum a silky quality. And every year, the rums are markedly different. Maison La Mauny has a silkier, more lacy side. Its hallmarks are delicacy, fruitiness, oriental spices and gingerbread. It even has sweet, floral notes. It is more of a blended rum. But it’s also a product of the land, because the cane comes from a small valley surrounded by mountains and a primary forest.<\/p>\n

How do you choose which rums to age?<\/strong><\/p>\n

It has to have volume, body and structure. After that, we work mainly on the choice of casks, toasting, and their location in the cellar. All these parameters do not give the same organoleptic profile.<\/p>\n

\"Rhums
This man doesn’t pray, he smells of rum as he leaves the column! \u00a9 FM PHOTOGRAPHERS<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

How do you choose which casks to age your rums in? <\/strong><\/p>\n

First of all, we get closer to the coopers in France and the USA. A cooper is like a stave-maker. The log is cut into small slats. It will be leached: a slat is emptied of its tannin at a rate of 1 cm per year. I choose staves that are between 24 and 36 months old. The cooper then goes to the heart of the wood stave. Then he will heat the wood. We’re going to ask him for specific toasts developed for Trois Rivi\u00e8res:<\/p>\n

– American-style toasts from char 1 to char 4 or 5<\/p>\n

– more or less advanced French-style heating.<\/p>\n

Advanced toasting : Notes of coffee\/cocoa, mocha and vanilla (with American oak).<\/p>\n

The French oak barrel gives rounder, more gourmand notes than American oak.<\/p>\n

I’m also working on capacity, with 170 liters casks, which is unique in the world! But also 200 L and 400 L. Depending on the size of the barrel, the exchanges are not the same and therefore give the wine its typical character.<\/p>\n

What are the characteristics of the cellars at La Mauny and Trois Rivi\u00e8res?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Depending on the rainfall, the years of ageing differ. This is also what gives a vintage its character. Cellar 1 is very old, made of brick and has the unusual feature of being semi-buried, as it is surrounded by a 3 m wall.<\/p>\n

This creates a fairly cool microclimate. I mainly store 400 liters barrels on 7 levels. Cellar 2 is well exposed to the setting sun, so it’s drier. I use smaller barrels and fewer levels (less angels’ share).<\/p>\n

\"Rhums
\u00a9 FM PHOTOGRAPHERS<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

How many casks are there for ageing?<\/strong><\/p>\n

That’s my secret!<\/p>\n

How do you go about blending the rums so that the taste and quality are the same year after year?<\/strong><\/p>\n

To ensure continuity in the tasting, I work with a bevelled edge, i.e. I don’t draw from the entire vat. In this way, I keep a trace of the previous wine. I often say, \u2018You don’t apply a recipe, you taste and look for continuity\u2019.<\/p>\n

How do you decide whether a rum will be a vintage?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We choose it purely by tasting and according to a particular profile.<\/p>\n

\"Rhums
\u00a9 FM PHOTOGRAPHERS<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Can you explain the principle behind the triple vintages?<\/strong><\/p>\n

The idea is to allow us to go and find everything I described earlier about French or American oak barrels. Then the tasting comes first. We select 3 vintages based on their history. Then we check that the blend works. We can play around with different batches from the same year to refine the product.<\/p>\n

How did you come up with the idea of producing triple vintages?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We wanted to bring out the character of our older vintages combined with the fresher, livelier character of our younger vintages. To have a softer juice with this combination. Why three vintages? To achieve perfect balance in the blend. And given the interesting age count and the interesting taste and volatile aromas of the young and generous rums. Having three vintages creates a harmonious balance.<\/p>\n

What place do the Triples Mill\u00e9simes occupy in the range?<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Triple Vintage is considered to be one of the cornerstones of our range, so the sixth and latest edition of this very rare old rum is a blend of three exceptional new vintages: 2006, 2014 and 2016. From one year to the next, its essential marker is minerality and oriental spices. My aim is for the liquid to last over time.<\/p>\n

The 2016 vintage, from 200 liters ex-Bourbon casks, brings freshness, mixed with the rare aromatic complexity of the 2014 vintage, an equal blend of 200 liters ex-Bourbon casks and 160 liters ex-Cognac casks. All this combined with the roundness and pleasant depth of the award-winning 2006 vintage, aged in 400 liters French casks, 30% of which are new and ex-Cognac.<\/p>\n

I wanted to bring out the older side of the old vintage. This Triple Mill\u00e9sime perfectly embodies the identity of Trois Rivi\u00e8res rums, with its fresh, spicy profile.<\/p>\n

\"Rhums<\/p>\n

\u00a9 FM PHOTOGRAPHERS<\/p>\n

Trois Rivi\u00e8res is also launching the XO, what can you tell us about it?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Trois Rivi\u00e8res XO embodies the essence of our southernmost Martinique terroir, reimagined as an XO. Meticulously crafted, it begins with the meticulous selection of six batches of pure aged cane rum. New casks and old Cognac casks are carefully chosen to give the rum an exquisite harmony.<\/p>\n

This method of ageing in 100% French casks – a first for Trois Rivi\u00e8res – gives the rum an organoleptic profile of remarkable elegance, particularly appreciated for an X. O. What’s more, our rigorous selection of 400 liters French oak casks offers a perfect surface-to-volume ratio, ensuring a balance between extraction and elegance.<\/p>\n

The warm, humid environment of our cellars works in our favour by adding a touch of sweetness, while the judicious choice of casks enhances the XO’s overall aromatic profile.<\/p>\n

\"Rhums
\u00a9 FM PHOTOGRAPHERS<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

How do you recommend enjoying Trois Rivi\u00e8res XO? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Trois Rivi\u00e8res XO is best enjoyed as a sipping rum, to fully enjoy and discover its exquisite aromas. Its smooth profile and aromatic complexity make it the ideal drink to enhance any drinking occasion. To fully appreciate the depth of Trois Rivi\u00e8res XO, we recommend sipping it neat.<\/p>\n

Poured into a glass, it allows the rum to breathe and release its aromas before offering the palate a blend of spices and a long finish marked by notes of liquorice and mineral accents. The complex, refined character of this sipping rum also goes very well with food. Its tasting profile pairs perfectly with a dark chocolate dessert or an elaborate pastry with tropical notes, enhancing any indulgent experience.<\/p>\n

For adventurous connoisseurs, this high-quality pure cane rum can also be enjoyed with savoury dishes such as delicate fish tartars or even scallops, which blend perfectly with the mineral, fruity and herbal notes of the liquid. Every sip of Trois Rivi\u00e8res XO is an invitation to explore and elevate your taste journey. Whether enjoyed on its own or paired with a dish, Trois Rivi\u00e8res XO is versatile and suitable for all occasions.<\/p>\n

\"Rhums
Daniel Baudin has put in place a veritable ceremonial to make the tasting a moment apart. \u00a9 FM PHOTOGRAPHERS<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Of the two ranges (Trois Rivi\u00e8res and La Mauny), which are your favourite cuv\u00e9es, the ones you drink as a connoisseur?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Each cuv\u00e9e is enjoyed at a particular time. One moment you want to listen to classical music, the next you want to listen to jazz. It’s the same with rum. For example, the XO is a fairly smooth cuv\u00e9e, but at the same time it has body and character. I may also want a particular cuv\u00e9e because it brings back a memory. Or because it goes well with a mignardise.<\/p>\n

\"Maison
\u00a9 Dan Beal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

You’re known for producing elegant, complex rums, but with a relatively low alcohol content. Why this choice?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We reduce our aged rums to degrees that are perfectly suited to tasting and that are suitable for the greatest number of people, novices and connoisseurs alike. Keeping the strength and body of a rum reduced to 40% or 43% requires even more meticulous creation and blending.<\/p>\n

However, there are also higher proof rums, such as Rhum Blanc 55 Origines. This is a powerful rum, suitable for the palate of a connoisseur looking for all the expressiveness of sugar cane as a raw material, where we appreciate our knowledge in creating AOC agricultural rums of the highest quality.<\/p>\n

What are your cultural inspirations (music, books…)?<\/strong><\/p>\n

I find that gastronomy is an excellent source for finding new ways of accentuating the flavours, profiles and textures of a rum through food-pairing. I’m always curious to discover food pairings that go hand in hand or in opposition with our agricultural rums and that have the potential to enhance the tasting experience.<\/p>\n

One example is our X. O, which can be paired with a dark chocolate dessert or a pastry with tropical notes. It can also accompany savoury dishes such as delicate fish tartars, or even scallops, thanks to its slightly mineral notes.<\/p>\n

What changes have you seen in the rum industry in recent years?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Our beloved rum industry has undergone some remarkable changes in recent years. Today, quality is at the heart of the rum world, with an ever-increasing demand for aged rums and speciality rums. As someone who has long appreciated the prestige of the rum industry, I am very pleased to see the evolution in the way rum is perceived.<\/p>\n

I am delighted to see that rum is increasingly recognised as a premium spirit, now held in the same esteem as quality whiskies or cognacs, with the emphasis on enjoying this exquisite liquid in its purest form. In addition, the expansion of the cocktail culture, global distribution and changing consumer preferences have all contributed to an increase in demand for rum, particularly in these diverse, premium expressions.<\/p>\n

These changes and considerations add an exciting dimension to my role, as they make the industry one that is constantly evolving and rewarding to work in.<\/p>\n

What future do you see for Trois Rivi\u00e8res?<\/strong><\/p>\n

I see a future where we continue to create and craft exceptional rums that inspire and delight. Our unwavering commitment to innovation and our deep respect for our terroir will continue to guide us on this exciting journey.<\/p>\n

With each expression we carefully develop, our aim is to share the unique taste and character of Trois Rivi\u00e8res with connoisseurs around the world. By constantly pushing the boundaries and striving for excellence, we aspire to create aged rums that will leave a lasting impression and contribute to the Trois Rivi\u00e8res legacy in the world of rum appreciation. Working alongside our young talent and new generations of rum enthusiasts, like Assistant Cellar Master Lionel Barrel, gives me immense joy.<\/p>\n

To have the privilege of passing on my knowledge and expertise to them is a real honour, and I’m delighted to see the enthusiasm and dedication they show.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This Martiniquan, in love with his island and his rum, has devoted his life to accompanying the astonishing qualitative progress of Trois Rivi\u00e8res and La Mauny. His commitment has been rewarded with the title of World’s Best Cellar Master in 2019. But Daniel Baudin is not only the \u2018statue of the commander\u2019 of Martinique rum,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":677,"featured_media":102623,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5603,5482],"tags":[5606,3063,3552,1546],"class_list":["post-102906","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-homo-saccharum","category-news","tag-daniel-baudin-en","tag-maison-la-mauny-en","tag-martinique-en","tag-trois-rivieres-en"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/102906","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/677"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=102906"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/102906\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/102623"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=102906"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=102906"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rumporter.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=102906"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}